When you walk into Range, it’s clear where their priorities lie; the first thing you see is a large, well-attended bar.  And as soon as you indulge in one of Range’s original cocktails, the bold presence of the bar makes perfect sense.

Even if you’re not a big drinker, it is worth splurging on one of Range’s artful libations, which the bartender is happy to make sans booze.  I tried the Corpse Reviver II which was both super refreshing (as a drink purporting to raise the dead should be) and complex, with a base of freshly squeezed lime juice and an aftertaste of absinthe.  I found out later that there is constant collaboration between the bartender, chef and pastry chef, who share ingredients to maximize their freshness, like leftover orange Bergamot from the chocolate truffles that ended up in one of the night’s cocktail offerings.

Quiet lighting and minimalist décor are on order but snootiness is nowhere to be found. That's because this place is all about fresh ingredients, not pretension; the menu changes not weekly, but daily, and the friendly staff is happy to explain the emphasis on local, seasonal ingredients, reciting a long list of local farms that the restaurant supports, such as Star Route Farms, Mariquita Farm and Dirty Girl Produce. That night’s salad of little gem lettuce with fried capers, parmesan, radishes and roasted garlic vinaigrette put any traditional Ceasar salad to shame, with lettuce that really did taste like it was picked an hour ago. The appetizer of marinated beets with watercress, walnuts and a fromage blanc toast was full of a lovely combo of salty and sweet flavors with creamy and crunchy textures.  With starters like these and a cocktail in hand, you could go home happy as a sustainably-farmed clam.  But there’s more – and it’s worth waiting (and paying) for.

Main dishes are where Range gets a bit pricey ($18 to $ 28) but portions are hearty and the quality is evident bite to bite. The Pacific halibut with English peas, baby cabbage, shitake mushrooms and lemon butter, was prepared with a perfect amount of buttery elements that brought attention to the sweet peas and mushrooms without eclipsing the fish that was cooked to light perfection.  Most of their cuisine is Californan in style, and each night Range offers at least one vegetarian entrée and appetizer, with other dishes including fresh fish, grass-fed beef, Fulton Valley chickens and pork from Neiman Ranch or Devil’s Gulch. In case there is any room for dessert, Range carries its theme of seasonal ingredients to this course as well, with items such as Crimson baby nectarine ice cream puffs or Rhubarb tart with rose geranium cream.  Despite the ripe allure of the summer fruit, I couldn’t resist the Bittersweet chocolate and armagnac soufflé which was a delightfully light and semi-sweet concoction presented in a simple cup with a small dish of warm, rich chocolate sauce tempting me on the side. 

My only beef with Range is that they didn’t inform their customers much about the measures they are taking to be green; I had to ask specific questions in order to learn about the restaurant’s commitment to sourcing their food from local farms such as those mentioned above.  Nevertheless, staff were more than happy to share detailed information, and it turns out that Range’s philosophy is to avoid labeling themselves as a “locally sourced restaurant,” and instead let customers learn through experience that the quality of Range’s meals is partly due to that fact that 90-95 percent of their food is sourced from local, sustainable sources.  Although our service was slow at first, the staff kindly apologized and picked up the pace as the meal went on. 

While it's classy enough for reservations and special occasions, Range also keeps its front tables open for loyal neighbors and curious passers-by.

Check here for more information and sample menus.


 

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